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Данная цель обусловила необходимость решения следующих взаимосвязанных задач: 1. формирование теоретической базы, на основе которой будет строиться наше исследование; 2. обобщение существующих точек зрения на явление анафоры; 3. рассмотреть и проанализировать экспериментальный материал следующим образом: 1) определить способы выражения анафоры кореференции; 2) определить степень активации референции в памяти адресата
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Словари
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Периодические издания
35. Vogue, December,2000
36. Vogue, January,2001
37. Vogue, December,1999
Приложение
1. Dye-hard competitor
On any given
Friday at 5:15 A.M., one can safely assume that the fashion and beauty
world is asleep. Understandable, for most likely, its luminaries spent
the night before mingling with cohorts at a charity ball or wining and
dining at Fressen. But Louis Licari – Madison Avenue übercolorist
– is up. He is pulling on his sweats, throwing his Speedos into his
leather duffel, and scarfing down his Smart Start. By 6:00 a.m., he's
out the door.
Licari – a.k.a. “the master of blonde,”
“the king of color,” "colorist to the stars," et cetera,
et cetera—is training for the Ironman.
OK, it's a half Ironman. But still. A half Ironman
consists of a 1.25-mile open-water swim, a 56-mile bike ride, and a
13.1-mile trail run. It's usually done by "athletes" with
jobs that allow for rest after an eight-hour day. Licari works till
8:00 or 9:00 p.m. five to six days a week, owns salons in New York and
Beverly Hills, and is busy planning to move his East Coast digs into
a more fabulous space. He's not a trainer, sneaker designer, or anything
else even vaguely related to the fitness world. He is, to use his own
terminology, "a middle-aged beautician," for God's sake.
Like many a bored-but-body-obsessed urbanite, the
five-foot-eleven 164-pound Licari has taken his fitness regimen out
of the gym. In search of something more than perfect pecs, he has, for
the past year and a half, been competing in half-marathons and triathlons.
But the half Ironman is his first foray into something hard-core. And
to Licari and his trainer, three-time Olympian and former world pentathlon
champion Mike Gostigian, he has just scratched the surface.
This year, Licari simply focused on getting through
each competition. Come January, he plans to train more competitively—up
to 25 hours a week, as opposed to the current ten or so he manages now.
Next year, he hopes to race in the full Ironman.
“People are so impressed that I work out,” says
Licari, pedaling at 65 rpm on a stationary bike at New York Athletic
Club (he eventually works up to 100 rpm). “But they don't know the
half of it. I go to a nutritionist. I see a massage therapist. I do
yoga. In L.A., I see a strength trainer. There's so much work involved.”
No wonder he has given up his beauty regimen of years
past— the collagen peels, the facials. “Ever since I got serious
about sports, I haven't done a damn thing, except normal grooming,”
he says.
But why suffer so? Why won't the AIDS Ride do? Well,
it did, but then it was time to move on.
“I’ve always lived near the park, so I'm an OK
runner”—actually, he can do a 10K in a more-than-respectable 40
minutes-“but then I got into biking, doing the AIDS Ride from Los
Angeles to San Francisco and Boston to New York. I liked it, but I did
it for ten years, and then I thought about trying something else.”
And so he began to think out loud about pulling it
all together in a triathlon. One client who listened was Mary Leonard,
owner of the U.S. Athletic Training Center. She introduced him to her
client Gostigian, who made it all happen. Gostigian, not Licari, was
the first to experience culture shock.
“I met him at his salon,” he says. "And
there were 40 women sitting around with foil in their hair. I was freaking
out. I was actually afraid that if he didn’t get to them fast, the
coloring would fry their hair off! But he really took the time to talk.
He’s really committed.”
The two bonded, especially after Gostigian’s haircut.
(“I don’t need Page Six writing about how I'm running around the
park with Grizzly Adams,” Licari told him.) Since then, Licari has
been training six days a week. "This isn't for people who constantly
cancel," he says (thus disqualifying 95 percent of all New Yorkers).
On most days, Licari rides U.S. 9W and/or runs up to ten miles In Central
Park. It can get brutal. “I’ve done color for 20 years. But here
I’m playing catch-up,” Licari says.
When he works out. peroxide and highlights are a
distant memory. Except when the Today show is on TV in the cardio room.
One morning, he looked up and caught – horrors! – Katie Couric with
a completely different “tonality” than what she had left the salon
with. “I was shocked!” he says, quickly noting that she, um, experiments
with her color in a pinch. (So don’t blame him.) At this moment, Annette
Bening is pitching American Beauty, for which Licari had frosted her
hair. “It suited her character," he explains.
A half-hour later, Licari jumps off the bike, ducks
into the locker room, and emerges at the pool a quick-change skill he
has honed as a triathlete. (When he first started racing, his arms and
legs were shaking so badly that it took him five minutes to change between
events; now it takes seconds.) In the water, he swims lap after lap
of freestyle strokes, sidestrokes, breaststrokes. Gostigian tells him
to tuck in his derriere, and he quickly adjusts.
On summer weekends, Licari takes his bike on the
company van (used during the week to ship hair products from warehouse
to salon) out to East Hampton, where he swims in the ocean. Frequent
sightings have made many overwrought Hamptonites think that Licari was
offering door-to-door service. One was hear sniping, “I don’t know
why her toots are still showing. I see Licari truck near her house all
the time!”
In fact, more pressing matters were at hand. “The
first time I saw him swim, it was like, he was in a shipwreck,” Gostigian
says.
“I didn't have a chance in hell,” agrees Licari,
who at the time still had issues with putting his face in the water.
But he started with the basics – blowing bubbles, learning how to
exhale and inhale. Gostigian devised special exercises to smooth out
the curvature in his neck and back (from years of hunching over clients)
and to increase his range of motion. This year, at 48, Licari finally,
stopped wearing a nose plug.
After one month of training. Gostigian signed him
up for road races. “I was frightened out of my mind,” says Licari.
“In one of my first races, Mike started yelling, ‘Come on, faster,’
and I just yelled, ‘Stop! Just stop!’ and literally went into a
fetal position.” Much improved now, Licari often finishes in the top
25 percent for his age group, and he attributes his success to Gostigian.
“I am in awe of Mike. He’s changed my negative attitude.”
By 9:30 a.m., Licari, in standard-issue Old Navy
khakis and a bright-white shirt, arrives at the salon. “You’ve already
got seven people waiting for you,” his slightly panicked assistant
says. Completely composed, Licari prepares for his first client. He’s
off to a running start. Vogue, 12.2000
2. Kate Moss.
The story goes that Kate Moss was discovered by Sarah
Doukas, the founder of Storm model agency, at JFK airport in 1988, as
she prepared to board a flight home to London with her father. She was
14 at the time, and a "not entirely enthusiastic" pupil of
Riddlesdown High School in South London.
Born on 16 January 1974, in Addiscomb, Croydon, Moss
once admitted that she thought she "might've been a bank manager".
As it turned out, she was destined for far greater things including
developing into one of the most beautiful women the world had ever seen.
At 15, Kate was cast in her first catwalk show, playing Lolita for John
Galliano. At 18, she became the Face of Calvin Klein, most famously
fronting his underwear campaign with Mark Wahlberg and appearing nude
for Obsession, and to this day Klein maintains that she "defines
her generation". She made her first appearance in British Vogue in January 1993.
Her first cover followed two months later, with Kate photographed by
Corinne Day in a pink and blue Chanel bustier. AsVogue's former Fashion
Features Editor Lisa Armstrong puts it, Kate soon became "the (defiantly)
non-supermodel who managed to out-super them all". The darling
of the fashion world, she was widely credited with spearheading the
controversial "waif" look of the early Nineties and, in 1995,
her fame was such that she was encouraged to release a hardback book
of pictures entitled simply "Kate".
But by November 1998, her hectic lifestyle had taken
its toll on the young model and Kate checked into London's Priory Clinic,
suffering from exhaustion. When she emerged the following January, she
announced that she had spent the last decade modelling "drunk".
"For years I never thought there was anything wrong with it,"
she told Vogue with characteristic
frankness, shortly after her rehabilitation. "We all used to get
drunk at the shows. I just thought I was having a really good time,
which I was. But it got too much. There was no normality. I felt like
everyone was sucking me away."Since rehab and the dissolution of
her eight-year contract with Calvin Klein, Kate has taken on the grander
status of style icon, appearing less and less on the catwalks. In the
May 2000 issue of British Vogue, she played muse
to seven modern British artists, including Tracey Emin, Sarah Morris,
the Chapman brothers, and Sam Taylor-Wood. She is also famously easy-going.
As Mario Testino says: "Kate is great company, a truly nice person."
And she is still enormously bankable. In September 2000, US magazine BusinessAge ranked her
the fifth highest paid model in the world, with estimated earnings of
Ј14.8 million. She has appeared in several notable documentaries about
the fashion world, having made her acting debut with a spot in the comedy
series French & Saunders in 1996. Kate's love life has been almost
as well-documented as her career, right down to the detail of the tiny
heart tattoo on her hand. She has been linked with photographer Mario
Sorrenti, Spacehog guitarist Antony Langdon, Rolling Stone Ron's son
Jesse Wood, and artist Jake Chapman, as well as Billy Zane, Leonardo
DiCaprio, and Evan Dando of the Lemonheads. Most famously, she dated
Johnny Depp for three years until 1997 (the pair were trumpeted by Vanity Fair as the couple
of the decade). She is now happily settled withDazed & Confused Editor
Jefferson Hack, whom she met in London in 2000. Her close friends include
Anita Pallenberg, Marianne Faithfull, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen,
Jade Jagger and Matthew Williamson. Vogue, 01.2001.
3. Stella McCartney.
Stella McCartney was born in 1972, the daughter of
ex-Beatle Sir Paul and Linda McCartney. She first hit the headlines
herself in 1995, when she graduated from London's Central St Martins
College of Art & Design. Her graduation show, attended by her super-famous
parents, featured pals Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss modelling her clothes
on the catwalk. Unsurprisingly, the student show became front page news
around the world and the entire collection was snapped up by London
boutique Tokio. McCartney launched her eponymous label the same year.
Despite her newfound celebrity, she had already served a long apprenticeship
in fashion. At 15, she worked with Christian Lacroix on his first couture
collection and later spent several years learning her craft on Savile
Row.McCartney was appointed chief designer at the French couture house
Chloe in March 1997. Succeeding Karl Lagerfeld in one of the most high
profile posts in the industry, McCartney's appointment was viewed by
many as simply an astute publicity stunt on the part of Chloe's owners,
the Vendфme group. However, her first collection for the house, shown
in Paris in October 1997, quickly dispelled any doubts about her talent.
Sensual and romantic, the collection teamed lacy petticoat skirts with
fine tailoring and was hailed a triumph. Her delicate camisoles and
Nineties updates of the Seventies trousersuit fast became the talk of
the catwalk circuit. The following season, Chloe execs proved that her
efforts had not only raised the house's profile, but had lifted its
profits too.Following the death of her mother in April 1998, Stella
stepped up her fight against the maltreatment of animals, a cause Linda
had always held dear. A month later, during Fur Fashion Week, she teamed
up with PeTA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) to release
a video championing animal rights.In April 2000, she renewed her contract
with Chloe, amid reports that she had turned down the offer of a position
at rival house Gucci, because Gucci would have required her to work
with leather. Exactly one year later, Gucci confirmed that they had
signed McCartney up, with a view to developing her own label as a global
luxury brand. The Chloe job was awarded to her righthand woman, Phoebe
Philo.In August 2001, it was reported that Stella had started dating
Alasdhair Willis, the 31-year-old publisher of Wallpaper magazine known
to friends as Mr Gucci, for his love of designer labels. Stella's social
life is legendarily star-studded. As well as being romantically linked
with the likes of Lenny Kravitz in the past, her close friends include
Kate Moss, Liv Tyler, and Madonna (known as Melly to Stella's Stelly),
whose wedding dress she designed in 2000. Vogue, January, 2001.
4. Karl Lagerfeld
Born in Hamburg in 1938, Karl Lagerfeld emigrated
to Paris at the age of 14. He was to go on to become one of the most
celebrated designers this century has seen.In 1955, at the age of just
17, Lagerfeld was awarded a position at Pierre Balmain, after winning
a competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat (the coat
he had designed for the contest was later put into production by Balmain).
In 1958, he left to take up a job with Jean Patou, which gave him an
invaluable knowledge of couture but apparently very little pleasure.
After just one year, he quit to work as a freelance designer for such
fashion houses as Krizia, Charles Jourdan and Valentino. By 1964, he
had grown so disillusioned with the world of haute couture that he left
Paris altogether to study art in Italy.In 1967, Lagerfeld returned to
fashion, joining Fendi as a design consultant. In the Seventies, however,
his name was more closely associated with the house of Chloe, where
he was given carte blanche to produce exquisite floaty and feminine
ready-to-wear collections which claimed to rival contemporary couture.
His 1972 Deco collection, which consisted of black and white prints
and clever bias-cutting, brought him worldwide acclaim. He produced
his last collection for Chloe - now designed by Phoebe Philo - in 1983
to move to Chanel (though he did return briefly in 1993, to replace
outgoing designer Martine Sitbon).At the same time as taking on the
title of director of collections and ready-to-wear at Chanel, Lagerfeld
launched his own-name label, now synonymous with strong tailoring, combining
easy-to-wear cardigan jackets in his favourite bright colours and softly
shaped knitwear to create what he describes as "intellectual sexiness".
Meanwhile his designs for the super-chic French fashion house, a fusion
of pre-war Chanel and contemporary trends, carried the label to the
pinnacle of high fashion in the Eighties and Nineties. Notable moments
of his career at Chanel include teaming the traditional box jacket with
denim mini skirts in 1991, combining club-influenced black fishnet bodystockings
with the traditional Chanel camellia placed cheekily over the breasts
and matching hefty lace-up boots with flowing georgette skirts and leather
jackets. By 1997, Vogue had crowned him the
"unparalleled interpreter of the mood of the moment".Despite
moving from label to label, Lagerfeld has managed to retain a sense
of his own style throughout his career. His success lies in an ability
to make a bold statement and he is never afraid to try something new.
He has also maintained a sense of humour throughout his designing that
has produced such legendary pieces as a shower-dress, with beaded water
streaming down the front; a car-dress with a radiator grille and fender,
and a multitude of outstandingly eccentric hats, from armchairs to cream
cakes, translating Chanel trademarks such as the quilted handbag into
a range of seasonal must-haves, including the handbag earring, the handbag
hat, the doll-sized shoulder bag, the quilted hip bag, the quilted Alice
band and the outsize baguette bag.He also enjoys a range of outside
interests, including languages (he speaks fluent German, English, French
and Italian and has expressed a desire to learn Spanish), illustration,
antiques and photography (he was responsible for producing Visionaire 23: The Emperor's
New Clothes, a series of nude portraits, starring South African
model David Miller) and describes himself as an "intelligent opportunistic"
and "professional dilettante". As he told US Vogue in 1988: "What
I enjoy about the job is the job." Vogue,01.2001.
5. Taking his shot
It's a sunny Halloween afternoon in Ames, Iowa, where
former pro-basketball player and U.S. senator Bill Bradley is scheduled
to make his fourth campaign stop of the day. The candidate's plane has
arrived about ten minutes ahead of the press plane, so that by the time
we disembark, Bradley has-positioned himself in front of the tiny Ames
airport, his H six-foot-five-inch frame sprawled across a green plastic
chair, ubiquitous grape soda on the ground beside him. His head is thrown
back, his eyes are closed; the candidate is catching some rays. As we
hit the tarmac, he looks up. "Welcome to Ames," he says, deadpan,
giving us a wave before he closes his eyes again. Finally, after everybody
else is loaded in the vans, ready for a walking tour of a couple of
Ames blocks, he climbs in. "I got him up," says his "body
man" Matt Henshon, "by telling him he would still be out in
the sun."
"Senator Offbeat"—that's what the late
Republican strategist Lee Atwater called him. Cool, seemingly laconic,
Bradley's doing his own thing out there on the campaign trail, coming
off as refreshingly straightforward or just a little weird, depending
on whom you're talking to. Earlier that day, he'd told CBS's Bob Schieffer
on Face the Nation that he "drew the line" where religion
was concerned; it just wasn't something he was going to talk about.
Schieffer was left to ask him simply whether or not he believed in God.
"Yes." "Can you tell us any more about it than that?"
"No."
Later, when he arrives at the house of a supporter,
60 people are gathered in the backyard, but first the host, a nice man
named Jay, asks Bradley if he'd like some cider or a soft drink, or
maybe even some beer before he addresses the crowd. Bradley looks at
him. "You got any whiskey?" This is the point at which Matt
steps in to reassure us all that the senator was making a joke, but
Bradley's not quite finished. Standing on the man's backyard deck, he
notices that part of the lawn has been roped off. "You know,-when
I got here today, Jay promised me that each and every one of you would
vote for me." Pause. "I'm only kidding. The only commitment
Jay made today is that he would save his best grass."
Normal flesh-pressing it ain't. It is, rather, an
approach that sometimes gets him labeled diffident, aloof, anti-charismatic.
But it seems to be working. When Bradley threw his hat in the ring a
year ago, most pundits—and supporters of Vice President Al Gore—dismissed
the announcement as the insignificant and self-indulgent act of a once-oversung
hero of the Democratic Party. He had, after all, waffled when he'd had
better shots, in 1988 and 1992. Now he seemed to be setting himself
up as the automatically unsuccessful and tedious spoiler in a race in
which all the other possible contenders had had the good sense to realize
they could never make it against the well-financed sitting vice president.
That, of course, was before he raised as much money
as the vice president and began leading him not just in New Hampshire
but in New York; before he put Gore on the defensive, prompting him
to change everything from his clothes to the address of his headquarters.
That was before respected political journalists like theWashington Post's David
Broder began writing columns with headlines like script for an upset,
and the Gore campaign team's disarray was repeatedly – almost luridly
– displayed on the front page of The New York Times. His
endorsements include those from Senators Bob Kerrey and Daniel-Patrick:
Moynihan, Wall Street heavy hitters Lou Susman, managing director of
Salomon Smith Barney, and Thomas Labrecque, retired chairman of Chase-Manhattan'
Bank, and Lakers-coach and former Knicks teammate Phil Jackson. (“Why
did he take the job with the Los Angeles Lakers? It was not-because
he thinks the Lakers can be champions – it is because it’s apart
of my Southern California strategy. Make no mistake about that."-
Barry Diller gave him a fund-raiser in L.A.; fans as disparate as designer
Tommy Hilfiger and investment tycoon Herbert Alien round up checks for
him in New York. He is running a big-league campaign in every way—except
stylistically. So the question now is, Will the style sell?
Bradley doesn't just want to be president; he says
he wants to change the way presidential campaigns are waged. In the
beginning, he conducted what amounted to a floating seminar – introducing
himself to small -groups of voters: probing, pushing, _finding out what
their daily - concerns were, begging for their "stories."
He was, he said, putting together a "narrative," a word not
often the mainstay of a stump speech. Meanwhile," he steered clear
of what he cafe "contrived" settings and exchanges. In a race
in which we know, for example, that George W. Bush reads the Bible every
day, Bradley will not discuss religion. In a race in which we knew that Mr. Popper's Penguins was
Al Gore's favorite childhood book, Bradley has-declined to "go
down the road" of the favorite book. ("What if I said Crime and Punishment! People
might say I identified with a killer;") After Bush flunked a reporter's
pop quiz on foreign leaders, the same reporter sprang a similar quiz
on Bradley, and he simply refused to play.